Our goal in creating this site was to make it a place where Nylon Rifle enthusiasts could come, hang out and share information. This is also a great place to get all of your Nylon Rifle related news, reviews, accessories, guides, links, pictures, videos and more. So whether you consider yourself a newbie or seasoned Nylon user, everyone is welcome to join in! ~ Mac66 & Louiemacgoo **Go to the Forum**
Letter Codes are usually located on the left side of barrel,
just above the stock line and just forward of the rear sight.
**The photo above shows the location of the letters**
(The first letter is the month, second letter is the year.)
Month of Manufacture
Jan Feb Mar Apr May June July Aug Sept Oct Nov Dec
B L A C K P O W D E R X
Year of Manufacture
1959 – F
1960 – G
1961 – H
1962 – J
1963 – K
1964 – L
1965 – M
1966 – N
1967 – P
1968 – R
1969 – S
1970 – T
1971 – U
1972 – W
1973 – X
1974 – Y
1975 – Z
1976 – I
1977 – O
1978 – Q
1979 – V
1980 – A
1981 – B
1982 – C
1983 – D
1984 – E
1985 – F
1986 – G
1987 – H
1988 – I
1989 – J
Please note that many rifles, particularly .22s, did not have serial numbers prior to the Gun Control Act of 1968 rifles were not required to have serial numbers on them. Remington started numbering Nylon rifles in 1967 starting with #40000-419011. In 1968 the numbers ranged from 419012-473710. The serial numbers were located on the bottom of the barrel, below and just back a bit from the front sight. In December of 1968 serial numbers were moved to the receiver cover and re-started at 2100000 and went to 2599999 in January of 1977. In February 1977 an “A” was added and the range was restarted at A2100000. These serial number series pertain to all Nylon rifles, not just Nylon 66s.
Please also note that these code letters refer to all Remington rifles including all the variations of the Nylon line.
Also note that sometimes you will find 3 letters on the barrel.It is sometimes difficult to determine which of the letters apply. Best thing to do is use the serial number trick above (w/o serial # pre 67, w/serial # post 67). Then fit the letters as appropriate.
There have been several discussions in the Forum regarding date codes and serial numbers and is a good resource for more information on the subject.
The Apache 77 was a green stock nylon rifle made for K-Mart and sold from 1987-1989. Although it’s unclear how many were actually made, estimates range from 10,000 or 50,000 to over 100,000.
Over the last few years we have been conducting a survey of these rifles that we can find so we can get an idea of the serial number range. With enough data, we should be able to figure out approximately how many A77s were made.
This survey is ongoing and we appreciate contributions of serial numbers and date codes. You can submit your Apache 77 information in the forum or by sending an email to us at info@nylonrifles.com.
A note on the numbers below xxx means whoever submitted the numbers did not want the full serial number revealed. Unknown or Unk indicate that one or more of the date codes were not provided or not discernible. Some letters were taken from photos which made it difficult to determine. In most cases it is apparent which year and month some rifles fall into based on their serial number range.
**This article has been republished from the original NylonRifles Yahoo Group**
“Ed’s Red” – - Revisited
By C.E., “Ed” Harris
Since I mixed my first “Ed’s Red” (ER) bore cleaner five years ago, hundreds of users have told me that they find it as effective as commercial products. This cleaner has an action similar to military rifle bore cleaner, such as Mil-C-372B. It is highly effective for removing plastic fouling from shotgun bores, caked carbon in semi-automatic rifles or pistols, or leading in revolvers. “ER” is not a “decoppering” solution for fast removal of heavy jacket fouling, but because is more effective in removal of caked carbon and primer residues than most other cleaners, so metal fouling is reduced when “ER” is used.
I researched the subject rather thoroughly, and determined that there was no technical reason why, an effective firearm bore cleaner couldn’t be mixed using common hardware store ingredients. The resulting cleaner is safe, effective, inexpensive, provides excellent corrosion protection and adequate residual lubrication. Routine oiling after cleaning is unnecessary except for storage exceeding 1 year, or in harsh environments, such as salt air exposure.
The formula is adapted from Hatcher’s “Frankford Arsenal Cleaner No.18, ” but substitutes equivalent modern materials. Hatcher’s recipe called for equal parts of acetone, turpentine, Pratts Astral Oil and sperm oil, and (optionally) 200 grams of anhydrous lanolin per liter into the cleaner.
Some discussion of the ingredients in ER is helpful to understand the properties of the cleaner and how it works. Pratts Astral Oil was nothing more than acid free, deodorized kerosene. Today you would ask for “K1″ kerosene of the type sold for use in indoor space heaters.
An inexpensive, effective substitute for sperm oil is Dexron III automatic transmission fluid. Prior to 1950 most ATF’s were sperm oil based. During WWII sperm oil was mostly unavailable, so highly refined, dewaxed hydrofinished petroleum oils were developed, which had excellent thermal stability. When antioxidants were added to prevent gumming these worked well in precision instruments.
With the high demand for automatic transmission autos after WWII, sperm oil was no longer practical to produce ATFs in the needed quantities needed, so the wartime expedients were mass produced. ATFs have been continually improved over the years. The additives contained in Dexron include detergents or other surfactants, which are highly suitable for inclusion in an all-purpose cleaner, lubricant and preservative.
Hatcher’s Frankford Arsenal No. 18 used gum spirits of turpentine, but turpentine is both expensive and also highly flammable, so I chose not to use it. Much safer and more inexpensive are “aliphatic mineral spirits, ” which are an open-chain organic solvent, rather than the closed-chain, benzene ring structure, common to “aromatics, ” such as naphtha or “lighter fluid.” Sometimes called “safety solvent, ” aliphatic mineral spirits are used for thinning oil based paint, as automotive parts cleaner and is commonly sold under the names “odorless mineral spirits, ” “Stoddard Solvent” or “Varsol”.
Acetone is included to provide an aggressive, fast-acting solvent for caked smokeless powder residues. Because acetone readily evaporates and the fumes are harmful in high concentrations, it is recommended that it be left out if the cleaner will be used indoors, in soak tanks or in enclosed spaces lacking forced air ventilation. Containers should be kept tightly closed when not in use. ER is still effective without acetone, but not as “fast-acting.”
“Ed’s Red” does not chemically dissolve copper fouling in rifle bores, but it does a better job of removing carbon and primer residue than most other cleaners. Many users have told me, that frequent and exclusive use of “ER” reduces copper deposits, because it removes the old impacted powder fouling left behind by other cleaners. This reduces the abrasion and adhesion of jacket metal to the bore, leaving a cleaner surface condition, which reduces subsequent fouling. Experience indicates that “ER” will actually remove metal fouling in bores if it is left to “soak, ” for a few days so the surfactants will do the job, when followed by a repeat cleaning. You simply have to be patient.
Addition of lanolin to ER is optional, because the cleaner works perfectly well and gives adequate corrosion protection and lubrication without it. Inclusion of lanolin makes the cleaner easier on the hands, increases its lubricity and film strength and improves corrosion protection if firearms, tools or equipment will be routinely exposed to salt air, water spray, or corrosive urban atmospheres.
I recommend the lanolin included if you intend to use the cleaner as a protectant for long term storage or for a “flush” after water cleaning of black powder firearms or those fired with military chlorate primers. This is because lanolin has a great affinity for water and readily emulsifies so that the bore can be wiped of residual moisture, leaving a protective film. If you inspect your guns and wipe them down twice yearly, you can leave out the lanolin and save about $10 per gallon.
At current retail prices you can buy all the ingredients to mix ER, without the lanolin for about $12 per gallon. I urge you to mix some yourself. I am confident it will work as well for you as it does for me, and hundreds of users who got the “recipe” on the Fidonet Firearms Echo.
CONTENTS: Ed’s Red Bore Cleaner:
1 part Dexron ATF, GM Spec. D-20265 or later.
1 part Kerosene – deodorized, K1
1 part Aliphatic Mineral Spirits CAS #64741-49-9, or substitute “Stoddard Solvent”, CAS #8052-41-3, or equivalent.
1 part Acetone, CAS #67-64-1.
(Optional 1 lb. of Lanolin, Anhydrous, USP per gallon, or OK to substitute Lanolin, Modified, Topical Lubricant, from the drug store)
MIXING INSTRUCTIONS:
Mix outdoors, in good ventilation. Use a clean 1 gallon metal, chemical-resistant, heavy gage PET or PVC plastic container. NFPA approved plastic gasoline storage containers are OK. Do NOT use HDPE, which is permeable, because the acetone will slowly evaporate. Acetone in ER will attack HDPE over time, causing the container to collapse, making a heck of a mess!
Add the ATF first. Use the empty container to measure the other components, so that it is thoroughly rinsed. If you incorporate the lanolin into the mixture, melt this carefully in a double boiler, taking precautions against fire. Pour the melted lanolin it into a larger container, rinsing the lanolin container with the bore cleaner mix, and stirring until it is all dissolved. I recommend diverting up to 4 ozs. per quart of the 50-50 ATF/kerosene mix to use as “ER-compatible” gun oil. This can be done without impairing the effectiveness of the remaining mix. Label and safety warnings follow:
FIREARM BORE CLEANER
CAUTION:
FLAMMABLE MIXTURE
HARMFUL IF SWALLOWED
KEEP OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN
Contents: petroleum distillates, surfactants,
organometallic antioxidants, and acetone
Flammable mixture, keep away from heat, sparks or flame.
FIRST AID: If swallowed, DO NOT induce vomiting, call physician immediately. In case of eye contact immediately flush thoroughly with water and call a physician. For skin contact wash thoroughly.
Use with adequate ventilation. Avoid breathing vapors or spray mist. It is a violation of Federal law to use this product in a manner inconsistent with its labeling. Reports have associated repeated and prolonged occupational overexposure to solvents with permanent brain and nervous system damage. If using in closed armory vaults lacking forced air ventilation wear respiratory protection meeting NIOSH TC23C or equivalent. Keep container tightly closed when not in use.
INSTRUCTIONS FOR USE:
Open the firearm action and ensure the bore is clear. Cleaning is most effective when done while the barrel is still warm from firing. Saturate a cotton patch with bore cleaner, wrap or impale on jag and push it through the bore from breech to muzzle. The patch should be a snug fit. Let the first patch fall off and do not pull it back into the bore.
Wet a second patch, and similarly start it into the bore from the breech, this time scrubbing from the throat area forward in 4-5″ strokes and gradually advancing until the patch emerges out the muzzle. Waiting approximately 1 minute to let the bore cleaner soak will improve its action.
For pitted, heavily carbon-fouled service rifles, leaded revolvers or neglected bores a bronze brush wet with bore cleaner may be used to remove stubborn deposits. This is unnecessary for smooth, target-grade barrels in routine use.
Use a final wet patch pushed straight through the bore to flush out loosened residue dissolved by Ed’s Red. Let the patch fall off the jag without pulling it back into the bore. If you are finished firing, leaving the bore wet will protect it from rust for 1 year under average atmospheric conditions.
If lanolin is incorporated into the mixture, it will protect the firearm from rust for up to two years, even in a humid environment. For longer storage, use Lee Liquid Alox or Cosmolene. “ER” will readily remove hardened Alox or Cosmolene.
Wipe spilled Ed’s Red from exterior surfaces before storing the gun. While Ed’s Red is harmless to blue and nickel finishes, the acetone it contains is harmful to most wood finishes.
Before firing again, push two dry patches through the bore and dry the chamber, using a patch wrapped around a suitably sized brush. Your first shot point of impact usually will not be disturbed by Ed’s Red, if the bore is cleaned as described.
I have determined to my satisfaction that when Ed’s Red is used exclusively and thoroughly, that hot water cleaning is unnecessary after use of Pyrodex or military chlorate primers. However, if bores are not wiped between shots and are heavily caked from black powder fouling, hot water cleaning is recommended first to break up heavy fouling deposits. Water cleaning should be followed by a flush with Ed’s Red to prevent after-rusting which could result from residual moisture. It is ALWAYS good practice to clean TWICE, TWO DAYS APART whenever using chlorate primed ammunition, just to make sure you get all the corrosive residue out.
This “Recipe” has been placed in the public domain, and may be freely distributed provided that it is done so in it’s entirely with all current revisions, instructions and safety warnings included herein, and that proper attribution is given to the author.
