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  • Steel Target Tree

    Posted By on July 17, 2017

    If you are a shooter you know that punching paper while a great way of practicing marksmanship does tend to get a bit monotonous. Checking targets (depending on distance) often requires having to walk back and forth to check the target and to see where the holes are. This is particularly true with small .22 caliber holes.  I had an idea awhile ago of building a target tree to practice with my .22 rifles. The idea revolved around being able to shoot at something from different positions (standing, sitting, prone) and being able to tell instantly where I was hitting. That led me to look at steel targets.

    I know about dueling trees which flip back and forth when hit on each side. I have a steel target that has four targets that flip up with another on top that when hit releases the targets back down. That’s okay but one only gets one hit per target before having to reset them.  I wanted something that simply registered hits and emulated the targets I often practice with at 25 yards.

    My search led me to a company called www.shootingtargets7.com that sells steel targets online at very reasonable prices. They have a variety of targets including round targets (called gongs) bulls eye targets (gongs within gongs) and silhouette targets (IDPA style). They are also selling rectangle targets as well as ISIS and Zombie head figure targets  They are made from AR400 & 500 armor steel. They come in various thicknesses from 3/16″ for rimfire and 9mm up to 1/2″ for the big stuff like 50 BMG.  They also come in various sizes from  3″ to 33″ in diameter. Since I was only going to shoot .22 LR I opted for the 3/16″ targets.

    Bare targets laid out in formation. They come unpainted.

    Bare targets laid out in formation. They come unpainted.

    My tree would have a large 8″ target at the top to shoot from the standing position at 25 yards/meters. That simulates a target at 100 yards.  The second tier would be two 4″ targets for the sitting position at 200 yards.  Tiers three and four would be a row of three and row of four 3″ targets for prone shooting.  Basically, three and four simulate 300 and 400 yard targets.  All of those targets fit into a medium flat rate USPS box for cheaper shipping.

    Once I got the targets I had to figure out a way to mount them.  They have mounting tabs at the top and people often hang them with chains. My idea was to make a portable stand that I could fold up and take with me.  I decided to use angle iron, threaded rods, lock nut and washers. I would use metal “S” hooks to hold the targets and spacers to keep them separated and spaced properly.

    At the hardware store I bought 9 feet of 1/2″ angle iron.  Ten 1/4″ lock nuts, ten regular nuts, 2 fender washers and 8 feet of 1/4″ threaded rod.  I had some thin metal rods from some political signs I would cut, bend and use as S hooks to hang them on the threaded rods. I originally was going to use nuts and washers as spacers to keep the targets from moving side to side. I remembered I had some old garden hose so I cut and split the pieces to fit over the rods.

    Front side. I used thumb screws and S hooks to put it together initially, replaced by nuts and garden hose.

    Front side. I used thumb screws and S hooks to hold it together initially, replaced by nuts and garden hose later.

    The S hooks were used initially as well. In trial runs of rapid fire I inadvertently shot one of them free. Other shots hammering on the targets tended to pull the bends out of the hooks.  Eventually I decide to cut and split more garden hose. A three or four inch piece of hose, split in half and then folded over cross bar/rod was the plan. A bolt/nut and washer held the target in place. The rubber hose would absorb any inadvertent bullet strike. I actually use both the S hooks and garden hose.

    Back side. Note the support leg construction and garden hose holder on lower levels. Of course you can paint the targets anyway you want as well

    Back side. Note the support leg construction and garden hose holder on lower levels. Of course you can paint the targets anyway you want.

    Assembly involved cutting two 3 foot pieces of angled steel. I then drilled holes for the four threaded rods. These were the cross pieces to hang the targets on. I screwed basic nuts on each end of the rod to center them in the angled steel. A lock nut went on the outside to secure them in place though you could used standard nuts and lock washers.  On the third rod from the top I also added two 24″ legs. I used a washer between the ladder legs and the support legs to they could fold up. There is also a piece of angled steel to adjust the angle of the support legs. The support is drilled at one end to slip over the threaded rod. At the other end it is drilled then notched to fit over the rod in the support legs. This allows  the frame to be angled depending on the terrain which is often a berm or uneven ground.

    I think it is important to note that none of the dimensions are set in stone. One could make the legs longer and place them farther apart. The rods could be be longer as well. I chose the current dimensions to be easier to transport. I should also note that the frame is reversible. This allows one to simple turn the frame around to continue shooting. Shootingtargets7 says actually good for the targets to shoot both sides as they tend to bow on one side after multiple hits.  Paint both sides, shoot one side until the paint wears off then flip around.

    Support leg detail. Note the washer

    Support leg detail. Note the washer

    Support arm assembly. Note the adjustment notches. Also note the bullet splatter on all the parts

    Final Thoughts

    Overall I am pretty happy with how it turned out.  I’ve used thousands of rounds on it over the summer and it works well.  It is also quite portable and can be set up on an incline or against a target berm.

    The garden hose does get brittle in cold weather and will tear when hit. It also tends to wear from the lead spatter against the targets. As a result I’ve shot several of the smaller targets loose. I will continue to try various configurations of S hooks or garden hose as hangers.

    In retrospect I would probably buy a 6″ target for the top row. I got to the point where the 8″ is too easy to shoot from the standing position and I would often just shoot the 4″ ones instead. Aim small, miss small someone once said.  That’s what practice will do.  On the other hand the 8″ target is challenging at 50 yards standing and 100 yards prone.  It should be noted that while these targets will withstand 9mm handgun rounds, shooting them with something larger than .22 will knock the entire stand over. If you want to shoot something other than 22lr on you will need to stake the frame down or secure the gongs in another manner.

    Since I’ve had these targets I’ve bought a number of other targets from shootingtargets7.com including some of their silhouette targets which I shoot at out to 150 yards.  I have them set up with hanging chains and 4×4 beams.  I am also in the midst of putting together another large order of 4″ gongs to use as falling plates for pistol practice.

    I’ve found the targets from shootingtargets7 to be the best deal I could find. They ship promptly and often have special and holiday deals.  They also have a variety of target stands, hangers and target stencils on their website.

    Though I’ve been buying from them for awhile I just recently learned that they have an affiliate program which I have joined. If you click through using the banner here on nylonrifles and buy something it will help  offset the cost of keeping this website going (and get my wife off my back for spending so much money on this).  So  if you do buy steel targets buy them through nylonrifles.com (until I can figure out how to put the banner ad up) there a link in the  Part and Gun Resources section in column on the left side of the page or click on the link below. It will help support us.

    Link: https://shootingtargets7.com/store/?acc=14bfa6bb14875e45bba028a21ed38046&bannerid=5


    Lightweight AR- Part II

    Posted By on July 12, 2017

    In the first lightweight article I got my build down to 4 lbs, 15 ozs using the Cav Arms/Cav 15 lower. I suggested some options that included a lighter weight bolt from AIM Surplus and a pencil barrel from Palmetto State Armory.

    The bolt from Aim is supposed to weigh 8.9 ounces whereas the bolt I was using weighed 10.8 ounces. The AIM bolt went on sale for $89  so I ordered it. I weighed it upon delivery and it weighs 8.89 ozs as advertised. That’s a savings of 2 ounces.

    The stainless steel PSA pencil barrel was available and I broke down and ordered it as well. It is thinner than a conventional barrel so you need a .625″ gas block for it instead of a .750″ block on most other barrels. I had a very light aluminum .750″ gas block on the rifle. I could not find an aluminum .625 block so ordered a steel one.

    The original barrel weighed 22.96 ozs and the gas block weighed 1.47 ozs for a total of 24.43. The PSA  barrel weighs 22.47 and the gas block weighs 1.48 ozs or only .01 more than the aluminum gas block and a total for both of 23.95.  Not much savings there (.48 oz) but it is about the cheapest and lightest barrel you can find these days. It should be noted that this is a 1:7 twist barrel with a mid length gas port rather than a 1:9 barrel with a carbine length gas port on my original barrel.

    Finally, I noticed that PSA had a true slick side upper for sale. Unlike the Anderson Sporter I was using the PSA upper does not have the shell deflector bump on the side. Upon arrival the PSA weighed 5.92 ozs which is .74 oz lighter than the Anderson. It also looks much better. $59.95 and yeah, I just paid $20 to save 3/4ths of an ounce. However, if it had been available first I would have bought the slick side instead of the Anderson.

    Total weight savings with these new parts is 3.22 oz. Not quite the 4 oz I was hoping for but within reach.

    The next phase of weight savings was to replace the steel receiver pins with aluminum and replace the steel Fire Control Group (FCG) with polymer ones from New Frontier Armory.

    The aluminum pins ($14.95 shipped free) save .4 oz off the steel ones.  The polymer FCG parts weigh 2.46 ozs less than the steel ones for a total savings of 2.86  ounces.

    Current reduction of 6.08 oz plus take off the weight of the cut down flash hider (1.16 oz) for a total of 7.24

    The polymer FCG parts from New Frontier Armory weigh the following.

    Steel         Poly

    • Trigger                                               .920             .197
    • Disconnector                                     .278            .053
    • Selector                                              .567             .109
    • Magazine catch w/button              .358            .091
    • Hammer                                            .987            .197

    total                                                               3.11              .647

    Total reduction  -2.46 oz

    Additional Ways to Cut Weight

    -Gas Block-The steel gas block weighed 1.48 oz. I had to  grind the top down a bit to fit under the hand guards. In doing do I noticed the very solid sides of the block could be drilled out without compromising the structural integrity.  I was able to remove .37 oz .

    -Bolt Release-The solid steel bolt release invited lightening. I drilled holes in the cross piece and button. -.11 oz

    -Barrel Nut/Retaining Plate-Drilled four holes in the steel barrel nut and three in the steel retaining plate. -.087 oz

    -Re-weighing parts. I went back and reweighed parts in the rifle to make sure I had them right. In the process I weighed a number of buffer springs and was surprised to find a deviation of as much as 2 ozs between 5 different springs. I actually found a spring 1 oz lighter than the one I was using. With the drilled parts the reduction was 1.567 oz.

    Total reduction with the lighter spring and drilled parts= 8.807 oz

    The original weight of 4 lbs 15 oz minus the reduced weight of 8.807 oz equals total current weight of 4 lbs 6.193 oz or a reduction of over half a pound.


    To reiterate, here’s the parts and what it would cost to duplicate
    Prices rounded up to the nearest dollar (does not include
    shipping, or receiver transfer fees)
    GWACS Armory Cav15 stripped lower*  $130
    New Frontier Poly LPK $40
    PSA Slick Side Upper $60
    PSA Stainless 1/7 mid length pencil bbl $90
    PSA lo pro .625″ gas block  $19
    Delta Team Tactical mid length gas tube $8
    GWACS Armory aluminum pins $15 (free shipping)
    AIM Surplus light weight bolt/carrier  on sale $90
    Delta Team Tactical Carbon Fiber free float hand guards  $47
    Delta Team Tactical Carbine buffer & spring $17
    Delta Team Tactical Omega Polymer BUIS $14
    Delta Team Tactical charging handle $12
    TOTAL $542 + shipping and receiver transfer fee
    Alternative Parts
    GWACS Cav15 Blem $85   (save $45)
    Anderson Sporter Upper $40  (save $20)
    *The Cav15 lower is one piece that incorporates the stock, pistol grip and buffer tube into one molded unit which saves considerable weight.
    Does it Work?
    I took the redone lightweight up to my hunting property and sighted it in. The barrel shot 3 shot groups into one hole at 25 meters.   Once sighted in I took it out to about 125 meters and started to shoot steel with it. 125 meters was chosen because there is a flat spot in my food plot at that range which allows for shooting from prone comfortably. In prone with a loop sling for support I was able consistently banging steel using the polymer back up iron sights. Groups were 4-6″. Those sights aren’t the best for precision shooting but they worked. I had no malfunctions of any kind.  I am happy with the accuracy and believe it could do better off a bench rest and/or with a scope.
    Other Things
    In my range notes I was noted the sharp recoil when I first put the light weight bolt/carrier in the original rifle compared to the regular weight bolt.  Shooting the rifle with new barrel and the light weight bolt I noted how mild the recoil was comparatively.  All other things being equal I can only surmise that the mid length gas system on the new barrel mitigates recoil better than the carbine length gas system on the old barrel.
    I also should note how easy it is to carry this rifle around. I took a walkabout on the property perimeter (over a mile) through rough terrain. It was loaded with a polymer flush fit 10 round magazine and it felt like I was carrying a little .22 rifle.
    Bottom Line….
    A 4 lb 6 oz  center fire AR15 that is lighter than a Ruger 10/22 .22 rifle. It works, is accurate and won’t break the bank.
    Mission Accomplished!

    Frankengun II-The Lightweight

    Posted By on December 22, 2016

    I’ve always toyed with the idea of building a lightweight AR carbine but never got around to it.  Recently while building Frankengun 1 I was looking over my pile of parts I decided I had enough parts to try and build  as light a rifle/carbine as I could get without spending a pile of money on expensive custom parts.  I had not set budget in mind when I started bit I didn’t see spending a lot of money on something that was made simply to play with. When all was said and done I was surprised how inexpensive one could duplicate this rifle. See the Edited to Add at the bottom for prices.

    Piles of parts

    The Upper Parts…

    Upper receiver-I picked up stripped Anderson ” lightweight sporter” upper from AIM last winter while driving through Ohio. This is a flattop but doesn’t have a forward assist or ejection port/dust cover like the A3/M4 flat top uppers have. It does have the shell deflector however.

    Forward assists (aka jam buttons) came about during Vietnam to allow the shooter to seat the bolt when it jammed. Original M16s were not issued with cleaning kits and the powder used at the time tended to foul the action quickly (that’s a long story).  It is debatable whether something that evolved for a full auto rifle out of those circumstances in a jungle war 50 years ago is even relevant  to a civilian rifle today.  The same goes for the ejection port cover.  The absence of those features cuts 2.2 ounces off the weight.  Weight 6.6 oz

    Flat top sporter upper with thin barrel and Cav Arms lower

    Barrel- the barrel is a thin profile 16″ carbine barrel from an earlier build. I bought it from Model 1 Sales back in the 1990s.  Unlike the more common M4 profile that is thick and thin in places, this thin barrel weighs 3.8 ozs less.  Weight: 22.9 oz  Note: there are “pencil” barrels that weigh even less than this barrel. One made by Faxon is said to weigh 19 ozs. It also costs around $180 if you can find one in stock. Palmetto State Armory sells a couple “pencil” barrels, one in stainless and one in black for around $100. Reports are that they weigh around 21 ozs.

    Gas Block-I was kind of surprised that a standard A2 front sight block weighs 4.5 oz. A low profile railed block weights a hefty 7.4 oz. I have an A2 FSB that was cut down my removing the sight part, it weighs 3.4oz. My choice was a short low profile aluminum Trinity Force gas block with a total weight with the gas tube of only 1.4 oz. Bought from sportsmans guide online.

    Gas blocks-R to L Trinity Force Aluminum, A2, rail block and a cut down A2

    Flash Hider: A friend of mine cuts down regular AR flash hiders and then threads them. He uses them as thread protectors and as “mud guards” on various rifles to protect the crown and muzzle. I’ve found they work very well as a mini flash hider. The cut down flash hider is 1.1 oz which is .8 oz lighter than a regular one. You can see the difference in the photo above.  An alternative is to simply use a thread cap/protector or grind/mill the threads off. Why do you need a flash hider on a sporter? You don’t.

    Sights:  It never made sense to me to have light weight rifle or carbine and then hang pounds worth of optics on it. Kind of defeats the point.  Use iron sights.  I had a pair of Magpul BUIS (back up iron sights) on another rifle but I found a similar style of polymer sights on sale at sportsmans guide made by Omega pretty cheap. I will try them. If they work I’ll keep them. The Omegas weigh 2.2 ozs.


    Omega Sights, very light weight

    Hand guards:  One could use conventional hand guards which upon weighing I found the original A1 type hand guards to be the lightest. However, when you add the front sight base, retaining plate, barrel nut and appropriate hardware the weight is over 12 ounces.  I started looking around and found a carbon fiber free float hand guard at Delta Team Tactical.com which is  advertised at 5 ounces for the 12″ long one. I ordered it.  Big surprise upon arrival was that is actually weighed 12.2 ounces with the the full length metal rail, 3 side rails and the barrel nut.  The barrel nut itself weighs 3 ozs. I took all the rails off and without the nut, the tube itself weighs 3 oz.  I took one of the side rails, cut it down and installed it on the top to hold the front sight.  By removing the rails I cut the weight down to 7 ounces. That will work and I don’t think your are going to find a carbon fiber handguard any less expensive.  An  alternative might be to order a shorter aluminum free float rail with key mod or M-lok holes in it. I don’t think it would lighter but it might get close.

    Carbon fiber tube with rails, end cap and barrel nut was over 12 ozs to begin with. Take all the rails off to get the weight down.

    Bolt and Charging Handle:  I used a standard bolt and charging handle. There are light weight bolts available but they tend to cost a lot of money. A standard charging handle with a standard latch is the lightest you are going to find.  I weighed a number of bolts and handles. They averaged about 12.2 ozs

    Lower Parts:

    Lower: The lower was a toss up between a polymer Calvary Arms (acquired in 2008 but now offered by gwacsarmory.com and called the CAV 15) and a conventional aluminum lower built as a carbine. The Cav 15 is a one piece molded unit that includes the stock and pistol grip. Unlike conventional rifle lowers it does not need a separate buffer tube. It also uses a carbine buffer and spring saving additional weight.  A conventional aluminum lower needs a buffer tube, buffer and spring in addition to a stock. The  Cav Arms lower is 23.7 ounces with the spring which is  5.2 ounces lighter than the aluminum lower.  An alternative would be a regular polymer lower but with the buffer tube, pistol grip and stock. I doubt it would be less weight than the Cav Arms.

    Cav Arms (top) vs. metal carbine lower (bottom)

    Buffer and Spring: One of the variables one has to be aware of is the weight of the buffer. Buffers can affect the cycling and operation of the rifle.  I’ve accumulated a number of buffers over the years from various rifles and parts kits. I never paid them much attention as long as the rifle they were in functioned properly.  As I pulled them out of my parts box or various rifles and weighed them I was surprised at the variation in weight. The lightest one was 1.6 oz while the heaviest was 4.6. The others ranged from 2.8-3.4 ozs.  The average buffer is about 3.0 oz.  The 3.4 oz buffer is be considered a “heavy” or H1 buffer while the 4.6 oz is referred to as a H2.   The difference of 3 oz between the lightest and heaviest is significant in terms of total weight but one has to match the buffer to the rifle.  A light buffer in a very light rifle may not necessarily be the best combination in terms of recoil, function, durability etc.  While good for the bottom line weight, this rifle will need to be tested* to find the best buffer.

    Buffers vary widely in weight. Lightest on far left, H1 next to it. The heaviest (H2) is the third from left/black one with the white tip.                                                   

    Lower Parts Kit: I used a standard lower parts kit in my Cav Arms lower.  If one wanted to cut weight even further there are some parts kits that use plastic (polymer) hammers and other parts. There are also some kits that used titanium parts and pins which tend to be very expensive. I am not looking at the ultimate light weight just a functional light rifle made with off the shelf parts.

    The Result

    Put all together I came up with a total weight of 4 lbs 15 oz.  That’s using the lightest buffer I had. Anything else would put it over 5 lbs.  It feels very, very light particularly compared to most other carbines which are over 6 lbs.  I haven’t shot it yet** but plan to in the near future. Overall I was pretty happy at how it turned out and how it looks.  I should also note that the upper can be put on any AR lower so tests with it on a regular carbine lower is also in the works and the subject of another article.

    The end result. A functional sub 5 lb carbine

    Final thoughts: The only other thing this lightweight needs is a sling and some ammo. To keep it light as possible my thought is to get a 1″ wide light weight nylon strap, add a plastic buckle and then attach it with paracord loops. Can’t get much lighter than that. To keep with the light weight sporter theme, a 5 or 10 round flush fitting plastic mag would be light to carry. Remember this is a sporter rifle not a battle rifle.

    So how practical is this rifle? I think it kind of depends on one’s expectations. It might be practical as a walk in the woods rifle, or a carry on a horse, bicycle,  ATV, motorcycle or bush plane. Perhaps it would be useful on a long trek on foot where weight is a consideration.  It might have some use for a child or small person to shoot and handle though less weight means more recoil. From that standpoint it might serve useful as a carry often, shoot seldom type tool.

    **UPDATE 4/14/17- The rifle has been fired and tested and went through 140 rounds without a problem. It is quite mild and fun to shoot.

    *The light weight buffer functioned perfectly.

    Edited to Add….

    I’ve been asked about how much it cost to build this rifle. It is kind of hard to tell since I already had many of the parts which were taken from other things. I will however attempt to break it down if you had to buy all the parts today.  I didn’t intend this to be a budget build but it just turned out that way.

    Cav Arms lower and lower parts kit-$179– Note: these are now offered here http://www.gwacsarmory.com/cav-15-mkii-ar15-polymer-stripped-lower-receiver-black-ar-15/. They are $129 plus shipping plus transfer fee, plus you need a lower parts kit ($40+), approximate total $179. I would guess with shipping and transfer cost the actual price would be just over $200.  UPDATE 4/14/17…check for blemished Cav 15 lowers frow gwacsarmory for $85.

    Another option is the New Frontier polymer lower. https://newfrontierarmory.com/shop/lw-15-complete-polymer-lower-receiver/  These are $129 plus shipping and transfer fee. They are complete and include the lower parts. Almost everything on it is plastic and is lighter than the Cav Arms. Problem is they are rarely in stock.

    Upper stripped receiver-Anderson Lightweight Sporter  $39   http://www.aimsurplus.com/product.aspx?item=XANA3LWT  Add shipping. They are frequently out of stock but you can get on their notify list . They are sometimes available elsewhere at a higher cost. Another alternative is a complete slab sided upper from various makers. Prices vary widely but are usually much higher than the Anderson.  I would prefer a slick side upper without the shell deflector but couldn’t pass up the price of the Anderson. UPDATE 4/14/17-these are back in stock as of the update.

    Barrel-$90  http://palmettostatearmory.com/psa-16-mid-length-5-56-nato-1-7-ss-pencil-barrel-5-56-nato-1-7-freedom.html.  The Freedom line is PSA’s budget line.  This barrel uses a .625 gas block unlike the .750 on  mine.  They also have black pencil barrel for $10 more. You can still buy a light weight barrel assembly from Model 1 sales but they are around $200 with shipping. Another alternative is the ultra light Faxon bbl for about the same price. I would go with the PSA bbl. If this barrel had been available when I started this build I probably would have bought it and kept the original barrel as an A1 Carbine.

    Low Pro Gas Block – $20 UPDATE 4/14/17  PSA now has .625 gas blocks for their barrels.  Not aluminum but they will do. Delta Team Tactical now has aluminum .750 gas blocks

    Mid length tube $8.00 https://www.deltateamtactical.com/Mid-Length-Stainless-Steel-Gas-Tube-AR15-AR-15_p_4578.html  or get one from PSA when you order the barrel and gas block

    Carbon Fiber Free Float Handguard-$48  https://www.deltateamtactical.com/Carbon-fiber-Free-Float-Hand-Guard-12-Rifle-length-_p_4182.html

    Back Up Iron Sights-$14  https://www.deltateamtactical.com/Omega-Mfg-Inc-Polymer-Backup-Sight-Set-Black-For-Picatinny-Rails_p_4472.html

    Bolt/carrier and Charging Handle-$110                          AIM Surplus has a light weight bolt/carrier 8.9 oz-$110. http://www.aimsurplus.com/product.aspx?item=XAIMBCGN3LW&name=Light+Weight+AIM+AR+.223%2f5.56+Nitride+9310+MPI+Bolt+Carrier+Group&search=bolt+carrier

    Buffer and Spring-$17  https://www.deltateamtactical.com/OMEGA-MFG-Universal-Fit-Buffer-Spring-Endplate-Castle-Nut-Kit–For-Buffer-Tube-Mil-Com-_p_4238.html  Don’t really need the tube, end plate, castle nut for this build but this is about as cheap as you are going to find a buffer and spring. UPDATE 4/14/17- Deltateamtactical now offers buffers and springs separately.

    Flash Hider-$9  https://www.deltateamtactical.com/Omega-Mfg-AR-15-12×28-TPI-GI-Bird-Cage-Flash-HIder-556-223-A2_p_4632.html. An alternative is a simply a thread protector. or grind/turn the threads off your barrel. You don’t really need a flash hider on a lightweight rifle.

    Delta Team Tactical has free shipping over $100 if you order all that stuff at the same time.


    -Prices are rounded up to the nearest full dollar.

    -Total cost does not include shipping costs, lower receiver transfer fees, taxes or tools need to build. I would estimate at least $100 more for the above taxs/fees/shipping etc.

    -Total weight may be different than mine since I couldn’t find exact matches for what I used like the buffer and gas block. You can take weight out of a standard buffer to cut weight. The flash hider is full size not cut down like mine. You might try a thread protector to cut weight.

    -It is likely that one could also save some weight by ordering a plastic lower parts kit from New Frontier. Good luck finding them in stock however.


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